'Shine your boots, Sir?'

The Art of the Bootblack

By Vincent for Gay Male S/M Activists - GMSMA

What better way to start an s/m scene than with a good, old-fashioned spit shine? Ensconced in his chair, high above his boi, the top is afforded an opportunity to sit back, relax and be serviced. For the bottom, his pleasure is double, knowing that he is serving both the practical matter of providing his master with well-polished boots, as well as giving his hard-working top a psychological and emotional respite.

Considering that boots are de rigueur in the world of leather, it is surprising that the "Art of the Bootblack" workshop, held February 11, 2001, at the Center, was not more heavily attended. Still, just under a dozen of the faithful were present for the workshop led by Fred. Fred's bootblacking resume is impressive. He won second place in the bootblack contest two years in a row at IML. Fred's patient and thorough instructions were well-appreciated.

Boots themselves conjure up images of everything from jackbooted Nazi SS storm troopers unleashing a reign of terror as they goose-stepped across Europe, to the more sympathetic image of American servicemen, in standard issue combat boots, trudging through and hopelessly bogged down in the jungles of a Southeast Asian rain forest.

Boots connote power, fear and a degree of intimidation. Most of all, boots command respect. A point well-taken by Nancy Sinatra in her signature song, "These Boots are Made for Walking."

And now to the meat of the matter, the proper way to polish boots. The first thing to know is that there are two types of finishes: wax-based and oil-based. Properly done, wax-based finishes will polish to the glassy sheen expected of military recruits. Oil-based finishes will not. It is easy to tell the difference. When you first purchased the boots, were they shiny (wax-based) or dull (oil-based)?

The first step in bootblacking is removing the laces, which can then be draped over the base of the iron shoe shine pedestal or shoe shine kit. A tip from Fred: keep extra pairs of shoelaces (72" to 84") on hand in the event you encounter frayed or broken laces.

For particularly muddy or dirty boots, use a spray bottle with a solution of water or light detergent and a damp cloth to clean away any dirt or debris. If the boot has a felt tongue, you can use a small wire brush to clean away dirt and lint. A toothbrush can be used to clean seams between the leather and the sole. Winter can be hard on boots in New York, and products are sold that remove salt and other stains.

After drying the boots with a cloth, use a horsehair brush to clean away any remaining dirt or fibers. Kiwi shoe polish, or some similar product, is best used with wax boots. This is a applied with an applicator brush in circular patterns. Start at the toe and work your way to the heel.

After the polish is applied, buff with the horsehair brush, in broad, straight strokes. Do not apply too much pressure, or you may remove some of the polish from the boot and give an uneven shine. That would be a bootblack faux paux, and it goes without saying that we don't want cranky tops unhappy that their $300 Dehners are shined unevenly.

Now, if you will, for the cum shot of the art. Use a cloth to polish the boots into a glassy sheen. You can buy shine cloths specially designed for this purpose. Water from a spray bottle or preferably human spit will make those boots shine like a Susan B. Anthony dollar washed up on the sand at Fire Island. By the way, actual jism is not recommended, as it tends to leave unsightly stains.

There are oil products, such as Huberd's Shoe Grease, available to rub into oil-finished boots. These can be purchased at shoe repair stores or at some leather shops. First, clean the boots thoroughly. Then, apply the grease, starting from the toe and working your way to the back and then up the shafts. Relace the boots, tie knots and your job is done, or just beginning as the case may be.