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Rope Rap
...said the Spider to the Fly
by Paul Sehm
from
The Leather Journal 71 Issue 24
This is the continuation of the "Rope Rap" article in The Leather
Journal issue 23.
You should have the chain frame in place by now (see last issue). Now
you will have to measure the lengths and widths to find the centers and
the fourths so you have four equal parts on each of the four chains.
Measure and count the lengths to ensure you are in line all the way around.
One thing that will help in keeping the chain taut and straight is
turn-buckles, one on each side, top and bottom. Pull the chain moderately
taut. There will be some slack in it anyway, but this you will take up as
you tie the web.
The easiest way to start is with a four inch steel ring. I suspended this
ring with a little string in the center of the chain frame. I added more
strings at the sides and bottom, tying in the chain and pulling them taut.
Keeping the ring in the exact center of the chain frame and pulling the
strings tight is not as easy as you might think, but it is important for
the web to have uniformity.
Start with a long and rather heavy rope. I am using a half-inch diameter
cotton twist. Depending on your area and size, the length will vary. It
is best to use one or two long lengths than a number of short ones.
A simple overhand knot at the end of the line will keep the end from pulling
through the chain and can be moved easily.
Start at the top center of the chain, run down to the ring, make a
full turn around the ring, and run up to the chain at the quarter
mark; run through this chain length. When you have this down, cut
the top string away, leaving the side strings and bottom strings.
Also pay attention to the direction of the rope as it winds around
the ring and through the chain. It should go around the ring the
same way on every turn.
Run the rope from the quarter link to the comer. If you want to take
this web down and put it up again, do not run the line through the
screw eyes at the comer like I did. Run it through the last link of
the chain. Go through the chain and down to the center of the vertical
side (your little string should be there). Go through the chain to the
ring and turn around the ring once. Go back to the vertical side chain
to the other quarter mark and go through the link.
Now go back and cut away the string holding this side of the ring. By now,
you should have an idea as to the sequence of tying onto the chain and the
ring. Continue this all the way around.
If you run out of rope, simply run the end through the chain at its
regular position, tie an overhand knot in it, and start a new rope
as you did this one at the next quarter of the chain. When you get
all the way around, end it by going through the chain and an
overhand knot ends it as it began.
You will find that the lines are looser or tighter than what you
started out with. This is where these overhand knots come in. By
pulling the rope up tight and slipping the overhand knot in and
out, you can adjust the tension more evenly. This structure
should be rather firm and tight.
Now the fun comes in: the "Spiral." I used a half-inch cotton
rope for the spokes and a one-fourth inch cotton rope for the
web. Do not use a braided line (clothesline) for the web. You
will need the ribs that are in a twisted rope to keep the web
from slipping.
Use as long a rope as you can get. Roll it in a ball or a manageable
twist and strap at the center. Tie on to the ring with a square knot.
Measure up about a hand's length and make your first knot. It is easy
to use your hand to measure as you tie onto the spoke, simply hold the
running end in one hand and place your other hand on the spoke
(standing line) near the knot. Keep the spiraling knots as even
as you can.
This knot is easy; it is one of a large number that is called
a running hitch. Draw the running line across the spoke, take
your finger around the back of the spoke, and hook the running
line, draw a loop around and behind the spoke to the front.
The loop should be large enough so that the ball of rope can pass
through it. Work from the same direction as you arc going. The loop
should not twist back over itself, nor should the running line. Pull
the running lines snug in the direction of the path. Your knot should
flip around the spoke and lay flat and even. Go to the next spoke and
do the same thing.
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