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Guide to Steel Bondage
This document is reprinted from the original at
http://www.altsex.org/bdsm/steel.html
which is no longer online
The Ten Commandments of Steel Bondage
by Harold Cox
adapted by David Stein from an article in the June 1982
GMSMA
newsletter
For those who like realism in bondage, there is no substitute
for steel -- handcuffs and leg irons. Leather and rope can both
be cut, not made secure and dangerously tight. Unfortunately,
many tops who use handcuffs are not familiar with their tools.
This can cause damage to their prisoners. If followed, the
rules below will allow tops and bottoms to enjoy their
scenes more.
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DON'T BUY CHEAP HANDCUFFS
Most cheap cuffs can be easily broken or forced open. A
good pair of handcuffs bought in a police-supply store
or ordered from a reputable specialty supplier will cost
little mere than junk cuffs sold by porn shops. For
modern-style U.S.-made cuffs, look for those from
Peerless, Smith & Wesson, Jay-Pee, or the American
Handcuff Co. The best old-style (non-swing-through)
cuffs are Hiatts (made in England)
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DON'T GET TAKEN BY RIP-OFF STORES
Smith & Wesson high-security cuffs cost a bit more,
as do specialty models such as hinged cuffs.
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DON'T BUY CUFFS WITHOUT A DOUBLE-LOCK MECHANISM.
Usually, the set-look is closed by inserting the pointed tip
of the handcuff key into a small hole on the top of the
lock ease of the cuffs; the set lock is opened by turning
the key backward in the normal keyhole. Don't buy cuffs
with lever-operated set-locks, which are typical of cheap
manufacture. Lever-operated set-locks can easily open
unintentionally and become loose and unreliable after
a period of use.
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ALWAYS DOUBLE-LOCK CUFFS AFTER THEY HAVE BEEN APPLIED
Cuffs that have not been double-locked can tighten on
the wrists if the prisoner struggles or changes position
and thereby cause damage to the nerves.
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DON'T MAKE CUFFS TOO TIGHT
The point of steel bondage is that it doesn't *have* to
be tight to be secure. Don't tighten cuffs more than
necessary; as long as the cuff won't slip off, it's
tight enough. It should still be easy to move the cuff
on your prisoner's wrist after it is locked and set;
assuming no tension is applied to the fastening point,
the cuff bows should not press into the skin at any
point.
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NEVER SUSPEND YOUR PRISONER BY STEEL RESTRAINTS OR
MAKE THE PRISONER LIE ON HIS/HER CUFFED WRISTS
This can cause serious nerve damage. Suspending the
arms above the head with steel cuffs, even with feet
or body firmly planted on the floor, can cause damage
if the tension is great or the position held for more
than a few minutes.
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DON'T APPLY HANDCUFFS BY SWINGING THEM TOWARD THE
WRISTS FROM A DISTANCE
You can break someone's wrist or arm that way. The
outer edge of the cuff should just touch the wrist
as you apply it; a short downward snap will swing the
bow up through the locking part of the cuff and then
back down and around the wrist. Practice snapping cuffs
onto yourself until you get the technique down right.
If it hurts you, it's going to hurt your prisoner.
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CUFF THE HANDS BEHIND THE BACK
Unless secured otherwise, cuffs attached in front can
be a dangerous weapon. For s/m scenes where the highest
security is less important than minimizing unnecessary
danger to the bottom, it is better to fasten handcuffs
behind the back so the palms are facing each other,
making any tension on the cuffs affect only the
less-vulnerable outer sides of the wrists. Palms-out
behind the back offers better security (that's why
cops are trained to do it that way) but is riskier
and less comfortable.
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DON'T TIGHTEN LEG IRONS
Leg irons don't have to be tight to stay on. If they
are, the bottom won't be able to walk, and the pressure
could damage the Achilles tendons or bruise the ankles.
Leg irons over boots are best if the prisoner will have
to move around in them.
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KEEP EXTRA KEYS HANDY
Nothing can ruin a scene quicker than trying to remove
the bottom's restraints (or those you've put on yourself)
and finding that you can't locate the keys.
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