Recommendations for Cleaning Toys and Equipment
Compiled by The Tom Thom Club
P. O. Box 251,
South Fork, Colorado
Phone: 719-873-5980 Fax: 719-873-5537
E-mail:
tomthom@fone.net
The easiest way to prevent the spread of diseases is to only use
any toy, on only one person! If a toy is going to be used on more
than one person, it must either be sterilized or cleaned and
decontaminated, as recommended, if it has come into contact with
someone's blood, piss, shit or cum!
Even with clean toys, it is a good idea to put a condom or two
on them before use. This also helps facilitate in cleaning. Also,
it is a good idea to let the toys air dry for at least 24 hours
between uses. Clean toys can be kept that way, if wrapped in
separate clean towels and ready for the next use. It is also a
good idea to wear latex gloves when using such toys, unless you
are sure you do not have any cuts, abrasions or scratches on your
hands. Washing hands in rubbing alcohol will usually tell you,
but not always!
The methods described below are adequate for decontaminating
for HIV, as well as for many other "bugs". Hepatitis
B and C are a different matter. Blood-borne Hepatitis virus is
very durable and extremely hard to kill. The B virus may
reactivate itself, even when the following procedures are
performed and the toy air-dried for a few months, if any
dried virus remains on or in the material -- say a leather
whip! Hepatitis C virus should not reactivate itself, if the
toy is cleaned according to the following directions and air-dried
for 2 weeks. The Hep C Connection in Denver (1-800-522-HEPC)
recommends cleaning, then soaking in the strongest bleach
concentration (20%) the item can stand for at least 5 minutes,
and air drying for 2 weeks.
Colorado Department of Public Health and Environment suggests
using the chemical Glutaraldehyde (brand name "Cidex"),
a cold sterilization system used by dentists, according to manufacturer's
directions for "High Level Disinfectant Usage". Add a
soap/water rinse before final rinse, then air-drying. It is
suggested Cidex may have be less irritating and less degrading
of rubber/latex, than chlorine bleach. Both need to be used in
an area with good ventilation and rinse the hell out of the toy!
The Centers for Disease Control has not made a recommendation,
claiming the research is not there upon which to make one. We
recommend know your Hepatitis status and get vaccinated for
Hepatitis A and B, if needed. Do the same for your partners.
Do not run the risk of spreading Hepatitis! We further recommend
that bottoms who are positive for Hepatitis B and/or C should
have their own toys or toys used exclusively on them. Multiple
strains of Hepatitis are out there, so don't cross contaminate
someone positive with another strain!
Dildos and Butt Plugs, Pool Balls, Enema Equipment, Etc.
Three methods:
-
First wash with soapy water to remove all debris from all "nooks
and crannies", antibacterial soap is best. Then rinse and dry
with a clean towel. Next, either soak the item in a solution of at
least 10% chlorine bleach (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) for 4
to 30 minutes (everyone has their own idea of how long! Personally
we go for at least 10 minutes); or soak the item in at least a 25%
rubbing alcohol solution (70% isopropyl alcohol is what is usually
sold and can be used without dilution and is cheap! It is not
recommended to use the 90% solution sometimes sold, as it might
only dry and preserve the "bugs"); or use hydrogen
peroxide; or a provodone-iodine solution, such as Betadine rinsed
off with rubbing alcohol. Next rinse the item well again and dry
with a new clean towel. Paper towels work great for the drying
process. Bleach is cheap, change after each use!
-
Rinse off then run the items through your dishwasher. Note
that your dishwasher must reach a temperature of 135 to 140
degrees F. and maintain that for at least 4 to 5 minutes.
-
Items, which can stand the heat, can be "baked"
in the oven at 140 to 180 degrees F. for 8 hours or at 300
degrees F. for 1 hour, after being washed with soapy water
to remove any debris. Always let the items cool before you
try to use them in/on someone! Remember not all items can
withstand this kind of heat but it works well on metal butt
plugs, metal "eggs" and such. Please don't melt
your favorite latex dildo!
Leather Whips, Gags, Dildos, Etc.
Leather items, that come in contact with someone's blood, piss,
shit or cum, must also be cleaned and decontaminated. Since leather
is not very forgiving of being soaked in wet stuff or "baked",
the problem is a little more difficult than for rubber and latex.
Hydrogen peroxide is not a good choice. Chlorine bleach will discolor
some leather, but can be used in a 10% solution, as described above.
The preferred method seems to be to wash the item in warm soapy
(antibacterial soap preferred) water and dry, pressing out the water
in clean towels. Then use the rubbing alcohol solution (70% isopropyl
alcohol) to clean all the areas. Be especially careful to clean all
the porous parts, such as the stitching in leather dildos (a fingernail
brush will help), you really are still not going to get it all and
these should be one person toys, or at the very least "bagged"
in a condom or three! Rinse and dry the item again in a fresh clean towel.
Next, the leather should be reconditioned. Suggestions include Lexol,
Care 4, bag balm (used on chapped cow udders and other veterinary uses)
and Dubbin. Ask for recommendations from your leather supplier, for
what they consider best. Remember anything going in the body could
have adverse effects, a bad taste being only one!
Kelly Thilbault's Leather and Latex Care (Daedalus Publishing
Company, 1996) is highly recommended for all you could ever want
to know about the care and cleaning of these products. As a disclaimer,
leather toys are very difficult to clean, at best, and many health
care professionals feel that even the above methods are not completely
effective, especially true for the Hepatitis B virus, which is very
hard to kill. They strongly advise making them one-person toys! Many
tops simply label the bottom's names on these toy's handles and reserve
their use on only that person.
Catheters, Sounds, Razors, Knives,
Piercing Needles, Branding Irons, Etc.
All the above items, which enter sterile areas of the body
or are intended to draw blood, must be sterilized! The above
methods only clean/decontaminate things and do not sterilize!
Ideally, these items should only be one time use, not even used
on the same person twice, but we all know the reality.
Anytime a sterile area is to be stuffed, cut or pierced, that
area of the body needs to be washed with antibacterial soap,
rinsed and dried (clean towels only, please), and disinfected
with rubbing alcohol, then with a provodone-iodine solution,
such as Betadine (use the stain as a pattern or wipe it off
with alcohol, if it ruins your aesthetics!). The cleaning
pattern should be circular, working away from the area to
be "worked on". It is also a good idea to pull a
cock through a clean towel with a hole in it before you stuff
anything up the cock. Your hands should be scrubbed with
antibacterial soap and covered with sterile gloves (available
in pre-sealed packets). Once in the gloves, only touch sterilized
equipment or skin! After any "procedure", once again,
wash the area with antibacterial soap, rinse with water, dry
with a clean towel and disinfect with rubbing alcohol, then
the provodone-iodine solution, such as Betadine. Needles
should be disposed of in a "Sharps Container".
Sterilization methods:
-
An autoclave, using the manufacturer's instructions, or
done for you by someone at a clinic with access.
-
The "Pressure Cooker Method" starts with a
thorough cleaning, with a brush if appropriate, then
rinsing of the item, as above, to remove all debris.
Next, the items are placed individually (several piercing
needles to be used in one scene may be placed in one
packet) in a sturdy paper packet (paper lunch bags are
great!). And the packets sealed with something like
masking tape. The packets are put in a wire basket or
something to keep them out of the water and placed in
a pressure cooker. Follow the manufacturer's directions
for operation of the pressure cooker and "cook"
at 15 pounds of pressure for at least 30 minutes (altitude
adjustments are appropriate). Preheat your oven to 225
degrees F. Remove the basket from the pressure cooker,
without touching the packets, and place it in the oven
to dry for at least 3 hours. Store the packets in a dry
place until you are ready to use them. Remember when
you open a packet, only handle the items with sterile
gloves on and after gloved don't touch anything that
is not sterilized!
Recommended Reading (only in the order in which I picked up
the stack of books):
The Leatherman's Handbook II by Larry Townsend
Carlyle Communications, Ltd., New York, New York.
Learning The Ropes, A Basic Guide To Safe And
Fun S/M Lovemaking by Race Brannon
Daedalus Publishing Company, San Francisco, California.
Leathersex Q&A, Questions About Leathersex And
The Leather Lifestyles Answered by Joseph W. Bean
Daedalus Publishing Company, San Francisco, California.
Consensual Sadomasochism, How To Talk About It &
How To Do It Safely by William A. Henkin, Ph.D. and
Sybil Holiday, CCSSE
Daedalus Publishing Company, San Francisco, California.
SM101, A Realistic Introduction by Jay Wiseman
Greenery Press, San Francisco, California.
On The Safe Edge, A Manual For SM Play by Trevor Jacques
with Dr. Dale, Michael Hamilton, & Sniffer
WholeSM Publishing Corporation, Toronto, Canada.
The Lesbian SM Safety Manual edited by Pat Califia
Lace Publications, Denver, Colorado.
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