Model: DeLano N. Distress
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Step 1:
Begin with an available person, sitting cross-legged on a
flat(ish) surface of some sort. Here we have DeLano sitting
on a tatami mat, but you can choose a floor, a futon, your bed…
The upper body can be bound already, or you can bind the Kani (
translates as
The Crab
for the pose of the legs) portion of these ties, then tie the
upper body before beginning the “Forced Bow” portion of the tie.
text/rope: Bridgett Harrington
photography: Kenji
model: DeLano N. Distress
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Step 2:
Move them to where they are sitting with the flats of their
feet together, but the rest of their pose is as if they were
sitting cross-legged. You want approximately 8-14” of distance
(depending on their size and flexibility) between their groin
and their heels. If the person you are tying can not maintain
this position for long, you can have them put one leg in this
position (I begin by tying the left leg in this example), and
their other leg is kept out straight until we are ready for it.
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Step 1:
Find the bight (middle) of your rope, run the line around
the outside of their mid-thigh and calf, and run the loose
ends through the bight creating a lark’s head tie.
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Step 3:
Run the line in the opposite direction around the calf and
mid-thigh right next to the previous line. Run the loose ends
through the loop that was created by the last turning of the
line. Pull snug, but not uncomfortably so as you need to keep
wrapping, and do not want the person you are tying to loose
circulation, plus you will need a *bit* of room between the
thigh and calf later on in finishing the Kani tie.
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Step 4:
Run the line in the opposite direction around the mid-thigh
and calf right next to the previous line. You now have three
doubled lines around the folded leg. Run the loose ends through
the loop that was created by the last turning of the line. Pull
snug, evening out the tension between the three sets of lines.
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Step 5:
Run the line in the opposite direction for a third time, creating
a total of four doubled lines around the folded leg. Run the loose
ends through the loop that was created by the last turning of the
line. Pull snug to keep the tension even. This is the last turning
around the outside of the legs, so at this point examine your wraps
and make sure the lines lay directly next to one another and there
are no major gaps between lines as these will cause discomfort
after extended periods of time.
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Step 6:
Your fourth line should have brought you right next to the inside
of the knee. Run the loose ends of the rope through the bend in
the knee, and out over the lines and under the leg.
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Step 7:
Wrap the loose line around all four doubled lines that wrap
around the leg, and pull it back around to the inside of the
leg.
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Step 8:
Tuck through the bend of the knee again, then around the
back/outside of the legs, laying the line next to your
first, and pull it back around, cinching the line. This
will stop the rope from falling off the legs if the bound
individual moves at all.
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Step 9:
Tuck through the bend of the knee a third time, laying the
line next to your first two. Pull tension even.
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Step 10:
Pull the line back to the inside of the leg, and instead of
running it through the bend of the knee again, pull the loose
ends over, through and under some of the lines at the inside
of the leg, thusly. Tie off with a simple knot of some sort.
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Step 11:
Repeat the above steps with the other leg.
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Step 12:
Your finished Kani tie will look something like this. If
you so choose, you can leave off here without the "Forced
Bow." If the person has good knees and free hands, they can
walk around on their knees to fetch things for you in this pose.
The hands could be tied to each bent leg using the spare line.
Or… get creative.
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Step 13:
But we are taking DeLano on with the Forced Bow. The Bow we
are doing today is built for someone with an average back.
If you are working with someone who is incredibly flexible,
pull lines tighter to compensate. If you are working with
someone with a stiff back, scoliosis or other issues, talk
to them ahead of time about doing any poses like this.
Run the loose ends from one leg tie up through the shoulder
straps in front of that same side. Do the same with the other
leg.
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Step 14:
You now have two sets of loose lines at the center of their
chest. If you pull the lines out on each side, it will look
vaguely like this. Instead of forcing them into a bow, you
can choose to tie the person off with these lengths to
overhead points.
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Step 15:
Pull both lines down to the outside of each respective foot,
wrap around to the other side of the feet, and pull their
chest down towards their feet. Pull as far as you intend
the finished pose to keep them. Yes, on very flexible
individuals you can pull their chest down to touch their
feet, but don’t push it, especially if you intend them to
hold this pose for a very long time.
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Step 16:
Cross the lines up and over the feet. I usually sit directly
in front of the person I am binding to do this, and thus
have use of both my bands for doing this binding, but for
the sake of photography we have employed a helping hand.
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Step 17:
Wrap each loose end around the back of the shoulder-to-foot
line and pull it forward.
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Step 18:
Continue to wrap each of the loose ends around the back of
the shoulder-to-foot line, pull it forward, then repeat.
Keep going until you run out of rope.
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Step 19:
Tie off with a square knot or whatever knot makes you happiest.
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Step 20:
From above the tie looks like this. You have finished the
Kani- Forced Bow tie. If your partner is very flexible,
the shoulder-to-foot line will be much shorter, to the
point that their forehead may bow be resting on their
feet.
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