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Knots
by Slakker
Table of Contents
Introduction
The
following table shows how some common knots and lashes are tied.
However, to practice good bondage you
do not
need to know all of these knots. All you really need to know is
a basic knot like the
square knot.
If learning the less common knots is of interest to you (as it
was to me), then by all means study all you like, but don't
feel overwhelmed. Your bondage is exactly that -
your
bondage, and the whole idea is to have fun, right?
As one reader said, "it's better to be comfortable with
using one or two knots than trying to learn a lot of
different ones and getting confused or self-conscious
about it."
The easiest way to learn to tie these knots is to practice
tying them using a short length of rope and perhaps a bedpost
or other inanimate object until you can tie them well without
trouble. Then you can move on to a human subject.
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Square or Reef Knot
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This is a knot for tying two rope ends together. Learn
the knot by twisting one end over the other one. Then
twist them again, with the same end on top once again.
Tighten, and the knot is done. Make sure both twists
have the same rope end on top.
Not to be used when your safety depends on it, but
appropriate when you need a knot that's really quick
and easy.
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Fisherman's Knot
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Ideal for heavy, stiff, or otherwise difficult to work
with ropes, this knot is easy to tie, but once it has
been tightened down, it can be very difficult to remove,
especially difficult to remove if it has a load on it
(for example, if used in suspension). Slippery rope,
such as nylon, will require a double tie on each end
to make it fast.
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Water Knot
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Another knot used to tie two ropes together, this is
very strong but difficult to untie. It is good for
tying wet rope and rubber.
Not needed for most SM applications, but when working
with latex straps or other difficult-to-tie materials,
it can really be helpful.
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Sheet Bend
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Used to tie two ropes together: notice the similarity to
the
Square (or Reef) Knot.
Equally good for thick and thin ropes, and easy to untie.
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Slipped Sheet Bend
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A variation of the ordinary sheet bend, but even easier
to untie -- just pull the loose end.
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Lark's Head
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This very easy knot can be tied even if the ends are
already tied down. Both ends of the rope must have
the same load, or the knot could slip and become
unreliable.
Use to tie into grommets or eyebolts for a neat,
clean look. Also used to tie into D-rings, such as
those found on a collar or on wrist restraints.
A body harness or "Web" can be started by attaching
to the subject's collar with a Lark's Head. For this
type of application, the knot must be made with the
centre of the rope, leaving two equal lengths to work
symmetrically around the body.
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Round Turn
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A quick way to tie down a rope end. Not secure enough
to be used where safety is an issue, but excellent for
temporarily securing the rope end.
If you don't pull the rope end through, but only the
loop, you are left with a Slipped Round Turn (pictured),
which is a great temporary fastening, as it can be
released with one pull of the rope end.
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Timber Hitch
RIGHT
WRONG
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It is very important to double the working end of the
rope back and twist it upon itself, not around the anchor.
Look closely at the pictures to see the difference.
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Fisherman's Loop
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One of the easiest ways to make a loop which will not
grow or shrink under a load. Useful to tie onto a wrist
or other body part, because it will not tighten and cut
off circulation.
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Bowline
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An extremely sturdy, and therefore safe, fixed loop.
Used by emergency personnel to loop around a victim's
body, under their armpits, for rescue operations. If
properly tied, will not grow or shrink under a load.
This little story may help you learn the knot: The
rabbit comes up out of its hole, circles the tree,
and goes back into the hole.
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Prussick
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For creating a loop whose size can be changed by
sliding the knot up and down the line. Sliding loops
such as this one can be used to tighten down a line.
Tie the loop around your anchor point, then slide the
knot down the line, making the loop larger. The line
will be pulled tight, and will remain there.
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Clove Hitch
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A popular knot among hobbyists, this is commonly used
in many disciplines, but not too often in SM. This is
because it does not tend to hold up under varying
stress, only if the load is equal on both lines.
However, if the ends are brought back from the anchor
in the same direction, the resulting hitch is safe
and elegant, provided that the load on both lines
is equal.
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Sheepshank
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Use this to shorten the middle of a rope, for instance
to take up slack in a rope already tied at both ends.
It must be kept under a load, or it will come untied.
The lower picture shows a "trick" way to tie the
Sheepshank.
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Jug Sling Hitch
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This knot got its name because it was used to create
handles on the mouth of a water or wine jug. The rope
was tied around the neck of a ceramic jug, with the
Jug Sling Hitch tied at equidistant points on the
perimeter.
It is a useful way of forming a loop suitable for
attaching tethers to the bottom, and will not resize,
regardless of the load.
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Pile Hitch
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This knot can be used to tie down the end of your
line. Not recommended for attachment to the body,
as it will tighten and block circulation, but very
useful when tying someone spread-eagle.
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Buntline Hitch
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A quick and easy way to secure the end of your line.
This hitch consists of a
Clove Hitch
tied around the anchor end of the line.
The loop can resize under a load, so it can't be
relied upon to attach to the body. However, like the
Prussick,
it can be used to tighten down a line.
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Knotty Links
Two non-perv pages that may be of interest to the rope bondage
enthusiast are
The International Guild of Knot Tyers
home page and Peter Suber's
Knots on the Web.
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