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The following is an essay by Guy Baldwin about Old Guard traditions.
It is reprinted with his permission. Do NOT reprint any of this essay
without his express permission. He can be reached at
gybaldwin@aol.com
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THE OLD GUARD
(The History of Leather Traditions)
by Guy Baldwin M.S.
While reading a recent interview with Brian Dawson, I came across
some of his comments about that '0ld Guard' in the leather lifestyle.
Although I used that label in a piece I wrote almost three years ago,
I only recently realized that there was a strong likelihood that large
numbers of leather guys don't quite know for sure what the phrase,
'0ld Guard' really means. I'm sure that I have never seen a description
of the style (and it is a style), so I want to offer one now. I have
carried my own '0ld Guard' card in my wallet right next to my Selective
Service Registration card (draft card) for long enough that I probably
qualify to offer what follows so, here goes...
First, a bit of historical perspective will be more helpful than
you might guess. '0ld Guard' is really a misnomer-a misapplied
name-for the earliest set of habits that jelled by the mid- to
late 1950s in the men's leather community here in the U. S. It
is very important to remember that the modern leather scene as
we now know it first formalized itself out of the group of men
who were soldiers returning home after World War ll. (l939-1945).
For many gay men of that era, their World War ll. military service
was their first homosocial experience (first time being thrown
together mostly in the company of other men for significant lengths
of time), their first time away from their growing up places, and
their first experience of male bonding during periods of high
stress. War was (and is) serious business; people died, buddies
depended on each other for their lives, and the chips were down.
Discipline was the order of the day, and the nation believed that
only discipline and dedication would win the war and champion
freedom: (Ever notice the especially strong patriotic feelings
that happen at leather events?)
Anyway, these gay war veterans learned about the value and
pleasure of discipline and hard work in the achievement of
a noble purpose. They also learned how to play hard when they
got the chance for leave time. Indeed, military life during
wartime was (and is) a mix of emotional extremes born out of
sure knowledge that one could literally be 'here today, and
gone tomorrow.' Lastly (for these purposes), the gay vets had
the secret knowledge that they fought and served every bit as
well as straight soldiers, and this information strengthened
their self-esteem. All of these things came to be associated
with the disciplined, military way of life as it existed during
the wartime years.
Although not all gay men of that time served in the military,
those who didn't were exposed to the military attitudes through
their contact with the vast numbers of military men who were
everywhere to be seen and cruised both during and immediately
after the war years. In any case, all these things greatly
influenced the shape of masculine gay sexualities.
Upon their return to the States about 1946, many of the gay
vets wanted to retain the most satisfying elements of their
military experience and, at the same time, hang out socially
and sexually with other masculine gay men. They found that only
in the swashbuckling motorcycle culture did such opportunities
exist and so the gay bike clubs were born. It was here that
they found the combination of easy camaraderie, the stress
and thrill of real risk taking (the riding), and the masculine
sexuality that they had known during their military days.
Since one can tell who is and is not in the military only
when uniforms are worn, these gay men unconsciously (in most
cases) transferred their loyalties to their own uniform-the
leather gear of bike riders with a few paramilitary touches
thrown in. Club insignia often recalled hose insignia of special
military units: Thunderbolts, Warriors, Blue Max, and Iron Cross
to name only a few. Club members would exchange their insignia
with members of other clubs in friendship; christening rituals
were transferred from tanks, ships and airplanes to motorcycles
and piss was substituted for champagne; the military dress uniform
hats became the leather bike caps-all these elements were just as
had been during military service.
Incidentally, during the war, the soldiers would often put on skits
for their own amusement. Since women were not allowed at the front,
some of the men would play the parts of women by doing a kind of mock
dress-up (as in one scene from 'South Pacific'). Later, this tradition
would be expressed in 'drag' shows during bike runs. So, masculine
men pretended to be pretending to be women-not truly 'drag' at all.
(lt. still happens in a few places.)
In any case, being in the military also meant following lots of
rules. And just as in the military, there were (unspoken) rules
about what you did and did not wear, how you handled your personal
affairs, who you could and could not socialize with and more. All
this was overlaid with a kind of ritual formalism just as in the
military. Those men who were really into dominance and submission,
SM, or leather sex tended to take these rules rather more seriously
than those guys who simply thought of themselves as butch. The butch
ones wore just enough leather to be practical when riding, and those
into the exotic sexualities tended to wear more gear than necessary
to signal this fact about themselves, but they all hung out together
in the same settings. As you might guess, in some cases, any particular
person might be into both riding and the exotic sexualities.
Just as an aside here, before and during the war, kinky folks
seeking to identify each other would sometimes defensively ask,
'Do you play the mandolin or the saxophone?' to discover which
of them was the masochist or the sadist by the first letter of
these instruments. All this while wearing street clothes! The
creation of a butch subculture by the gay vets began to allow
people to specialize their sexual interests in a way that had
been impossible earlier. Prior to this development, it was not
apparent that there were very many ways to be gay.
The bike clubs and the bars where they hung out became the magnets
of their day which attracted those gay men who were interested in
the masculine end of the gay spectrum, but it was the leather men
who defined the masculine extreme at that time. (Nowadays, we know
there are many ways to be masculine) This meant that those who had
an inclination to kinky action pretty much felt compelled to explore
kink in the context of the leather SM scene since it was the only
game in town. If motorcycle riding or black leather itself was not
'your thing,' that meant one felt obligated to visit the hang outs
and look and act the part as much as possible to find one's way into
the inner circle of those who looked like they knew something about
the exotic sexualities. This meant finding out what the rules of
inclusion were (how can I be included?) in order to gain access.
To some extent, all this is still true because the attitude still
prevails that the 'uniform' indicates experience and social access
to the Knowledgeable People.
And so, the Scene became EX-clusive rather than IN-clusive,
meaning that the people in the Scene understood the rules and
tried to keep outsiders out-to exclude them. An outsider became
defined as anyone (butch or not) who did not have a primary interest
in and experience with the exotic sexualities or at least an interest
in motorcycles. (This excluding attitude was probably also reinforced
by guilt about being kinky.)
I know that this combination of kinky men mixed in with motorcycle
riders may sound a bit odd now, but that's how the Scene worked and,
to some slight extent, still does. All through the 80's, with the
emergence of kinky organizations and specifically leather/SM events,
the motorcycle riding community and the kinky leather community have
grown apart such that now those in one group are pretty much ignorant
of or indifferent to the events happening in the other.
This growing separation is more true in larger cities which have
the numbers of people that are necessary to support each of these
two communities, each with separate needs and agendas. Consequently,
many old and venerable bike clubs have experienced a drop in membership
and some have disbanded altogether.
But for the most part, kinky people have segregated themselves out
from the riders as the process of erotic specialization has continued.
Generally, the riding community seems not to have minded this development
perhaps because many of the members of riding clubs are either turned
off or embarrassed by the erotic visibility of the kinky crowd "Birds
of a feather". But for this discussion, it is noteworthy that many of
those kinky people retained the paramilitary trappings, manners and
attitudes of that early, core group of returning World War ll gay vets.
Most importantly, these features of the military mind-set joined
with kinky interests and became erotic in and of themselves became
fetishes. These men then were the original '0ld Guard,' and so it
will come as no surprise that their quasi-military rules of inclusion
and exclusion still influence kinky society today.
So what exactly were the (unspoken) "Old Guard' rules? Here are a
few of the more important ones that had prevailed by 1970:
About Attire
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Always wear boots, butch ones, and preferably black
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Always wear a wide black leather belt plain, not fancy
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Never mix brown leather with black leather
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Never mix chrome or silver trim with gold or brass trim
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Long pants only, Levi's or leather, and no shorts
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Chaps indicate more commitment than Levi's, and leather
pants more commitment than chaps, especially when worn
consistently
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Leather Jackets must have epaulets (bike riders excepted)
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Head gear is reserved for Tops or experienced or heavy
bottoms only
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Bottoms may not own collars unless a particular Top has
allowed that bottom to be the custodian of the Top's collar.
A bottom wearing a collar is a slave, and belongs to the
owner of the collar who, presumably, has the keys. Other
Tops are not to engage a collared bottom in conversation,
but other bottoms may do so. Should such a relationship end,
the collar must be returned to the Top.
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Never touch the bill of a bike cap, including your own
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Never touch another man's cap (or head gear) unless you
are very intimate friends or lovers
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Keep studs and other decorations to a tasteful minimum
unless they happen to be club insignia
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Never wear another man's leather unless he puts it on you
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Leather, other than boots and belt, must be 'earned' through
the achievement of successively challenging 'scenes.'
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Wearing gloves is reserved for heavy players, glove
fetishists or bike riders
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Always indicate SM preference, only with keys left or right
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If you are cruising seriously, wear the keys out; if not
seriously, tuck them in a back pocket
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Always indicate strictly leather sex or 'rough sex'
interest by wearing no keys at all
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Those who 'switch' are second class players and not to be
taken as seriously because they haven't made their minds up.
If you must switch, do so in another town
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'Full' leather is reserved for after 10:00 P.M. only and
only with 'our own kind'
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Respect the public by wearing less of it during the
day--don't frighten old ladies (l did once by accident),
or anyone else for that matter
About Socializing and Cruising:
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Experience in the Scene determines social seniority (Top
or bottom), not age, not size, not amount of leather worn,
and not offices held in organizations, awards received or
titles won
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Tops and experienced bottoms should be accorded higher respect
and deference unless and until they behave rudely--all are
expected to observe rules of social courtesy-bad manners are
inexcusable and can lower one's status in the Scene (thereby
reducing access to the Knowledgeable People for information or play)
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Real Leathermen keep their word: they do not borrow or lend
money; they conduct their affairs with honor and integrity-they
don't lie
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Preliminary social contact should be on the formal side
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'Senior Persons' (Top or bottom) are not to be interrupted
when in conversation
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Experience being equal, Tops lead the conversation
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Junior Tops defer to Senior Tops and Senior bottoms in
social situations
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Junior bottoms defer to all others in the Scene but
not to outsiders
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When walking together, bottoms walk half-a-step behind
and to the left of Tops with whom they are involved or
playing
It is up to the Top or the experienced bottom to extend a hand
to invite a handshake. (All touching is highly restricted during
initial contact between strangers.) NEVER over-indulge in drugs
or alcohol in public, or otherwise attract scornful attention to
one's self--to do so brings dishonor on the men in the Scene
Tops should always have the first two opportunities to make verbal
or physical contact
The more submissive one is, the less direct eye contact one
makes-glance frequently at or stare at His boots only when
cruising; less so in non-sexual conversation. The more dominant
one is, the more direct the eye contact is unless there is no
erotic interest (cruising only)
Men in the Scene do not discuss (or write about the Scene with
outsiders. All men in the Scene must be able to spot outsiders
with the 'right stuff' and be ready to facilitate them into the
Scene after they indicate sincere interest
None of these rules are taught or explained to anyone except by
innuendo, inference, or example
Erotic technical information is only shared among peers
Maintain formal and non-committal relationships with those
outside the scene; avoid contact with feminine men. Women
are not allowed although Senior People may occasionally have
intellectual or brief social relationships with the occasional
qualified kinky woman, but only in private
Very few men maintained full compliance with all these rules
all the time, and some, flatly refused to follow rules they
personally objected to. But, to be included one was expected
to follow at least most of these rules most of the time. Also,
confusingly, there was some variation in some of the rules
depending on what city you happened to be in at the time. The
list above is not complete although it conveys the sense of
the style.
Understandably, a certain stiffness surrounded the men who
followed these rules, just as a certain stiffness surrounded
the military men of the era. Those who sought inclusion had
the challenge of finding a relaxed and easygoing way to follow
rules. However, this required considerable social skill and
many kinky people lacking those skills (or patience) simply
gave up and accepted a frustrated role on the fringe.
As time passed, there were more and more guys in their twenties
whose early sexual development had not been influenced strongly
by contact with the military. Therefore, they lacked the early
raw material with which to fetish-ize the military features of
the '0ld Guard' leather/SM scene. Still, they needed information
and experiences to help shape the urges of insistent kinky longings.
These people were essentially without resources until the
establishment of kinky organizations brought about new
educational opportunities that were not bound by '0ld Guard'
rules. Consequently, there is a lot more support now for new
people coming into the leather/ SM scene who have other ideas
(non-military) about what is hot. Long hair, rockers with wild
designs on their jackets, road racing bikers with brightly colored
leathers, leather faeries, skinheads, women and others now are
found on turf once dominated by the '0ld Guard' system'.
So, '0ld Early Guard' or perhaps thought of as 'Early Guard" or
perhaps 'First Guard' because that style makes sense given the
erotic influences that shaped the inner lives of the men who
were coming of age sexually at that time. The Old Guard made
some real contributions and made some real mistakes, and still
does both.
It is more useful to understand than to criticize. And, perhaps
most importantly, what the Old Guard did for the development
and expansion of kinky life and butch gay male sexuality can
best be appreciated against the backdrop of what had existed
earlier--not much of anything!
But remember this, as long as we have a military, and a
paramilitary police system, and as long as that military
has traditions of initiation, ritual, inclusion/exclusion,
honor and service, there will always be an '0ld Guard.' Its
size and influence in the leather/SM scene will probably always
be proportional to the role played by the military and other
paramilitary organizations in society-larger following wartime
and smaller during peace. I thought maybe you'd like to know.
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